The Michelin-starred Musaafer bursts onto the New York Fine Dining Firmament
Meet Musaafer’s Fabulist Food Narrators Mithu and Shammi Malik
By Lavina Melwani
Musaafer, the Michelin starred restaurant, is a noted marker of Indian culture and cuisine right in the midst of bustling New York City. It’s like traveling in a time machine to an ornate palace where an authentic feast from many regions of India awaits you – if only you could get a reservation!
Since its opening, diners have been lining up for the unique ambiance and tastes. As one who has been there, I can vouch that it will add greatly to your experience of Indian cuisine. After all, eating out is so much more than just food – it is memories, travel, fragrances, textures and tastes all wrapped together, woven into a tapestry, a many-layered story.
Let me introduce you to Musaafer’s fabulist food narrators Mithu and Shammi Malik, and their magical wizard, Chef Mayank Istwal.
At one time, Musaafer did not exist, it was invisible – just an idea in the minds of immigrant entrepreneurs Shammi and Mithu Malik. Much like trader-travelers of Medieval days, they set forth from Chandigarh to Nigeria to Dubai to America, selling Indian products to the world. Starting out as purveyors of Indian products, they graduated to cuisine, having seen the rising need for Indian food in far-off regions of the world.
Today they have a mini business empire which embraces several high-end restaurants, an ice cream import and distribution division and a commodity export business.
Mithu, who studied biology, had a career as a pharmacist but food was always the love of her life. Although she was born in Simla, she lived in many regions of India as her father was in the military. She recalls, “He was posted everywhere – we were in the east, we were down south, we were north, we were in Rajasthan. So, we saw a lot of the country, which I think may have kind of piqued my interest in food as well.
Food was very, very central growing up, and then also discovering regional cuisine, because the different places that we lived in, the food was so diverse, and my mom, who was a very good cook, was really quick to pick up new dishes. My father’s side of the family is also extremely food obsessed, so I became really passionate about food and think that any meal that is not delicious is a wasted meal.”
Food has been a passion for the couple, and Mithu recalls that even many years ago, when they went out on a date and saw Humprey Bogart in ‘Casablanca’, Shammi said wistfully, “I hope I can own a restaurant one day!”
In 2004, they brought Debonair Pizza, a South African franchise, to West Africa, where it earned the title of “The Highest Grossing Debonair Pizza in Africa” for several years. They later expanded their franchise portfolio to include Steers burgers, Fishaways, and Mugg & Bean coffee shops.
From small general service restaurants and pizza joints in Lagos, Nigeria, they decided to create a luxurious Indian restaurant in Africa, Spice Route, and that still exists in Nigeria.
The success of Spice Route inspired them to bring the brand to a global audience. In 2019, they relocated to Houston, Texas, to introduce Musaafer. It became the only Michelin-starred Indian restaurant in that state. An Indian palace in the desert of Texas, it has been received warmly there and anointed with the first Michelin star ever given to the to any woman-owned restaurant in Texas.
Next stop: New York, the Center of the World’s Dining Cosmos.
Musaafer, which means traveler, rises almost like a mirage amongst the glass and stone canyons of Tribeca in Manhattan. One of the strengths of Musaafer is the grand ambience – it really is like a time machine which takes you to the royal past.
It is located in the historic Hope building and thus becomes a part of the history of New York, of the changing city which has an insatiable appetite to make every part of the world its own. It is almost 11,000 square feet, and at every day, the intricate trappings of an Indian palace come alive
“The overarching philosophy behind Musaafer is one of authenticity. Within one dining experience, guests are provided a glimpse into India itself – from the design they see on the walls and floors, to the design they see on their plates,” says Shammi Malik. “Musaafer is a respite designed for all, a place to savor and celebrate Indian heritage.”
Mithu says Musaafer was inspired by the Taj Mahal in Agra and the Hawa Mahal in Jaipur, and many intricate features from both have been incorporated, in marble, stone and brass. Design is a passion with Mithu and almost like a docent at a museum, she gave me a tour of the special features – from the gorgeous jhumars, chandeliers which sway or jhum, to the intricate tiles which flower on the floors, almost giving the illusion of an embroidered Persian carpet with borders. Throughout the restaurant, intricate design details can be found in every corner, from hand-painted wall panels to mother-of-pearl inlays and lotus flower chandeliers. Musaafer’s showstopper is an all-mirror, semi-private dining area named Sheesh Mahal, The Palace of Mirrors. These traditional rooms are known for their intricate mirror work, and at Musaafer New York, thousands of tiny, reflective hand-cut pieces of mirrors are arranged all around to convey that feeling of the past royalty.
Musaafer’s speakeasy Saaqi, in the basement, is informal and incorporates old existing fixures with walls covered with whimsical contemporary art. It has a personality all its own, and is the place to grab a drink with friends, reservations not needed.
The Maliks got designers, sculptors and artists involved, so there is a story behind each design feature of Musaafer. Even the walls of the restroom have been populated by a nature artist from ceiling to floor with a mosaic of a jungle landscape with peacocks, monkeys and cows.
At Musaafer, India has literally been transported to America in 16 containers by cargo ship!
A very important dynamic at Musaafer are the food creations of Chef Mayank Istwal, who like a world-class conductor, orchestrates the kitchens of both Musaafers in two states. He knows regional food by taste and heart, having journeyed to India to multiple cities and states to meet with the locals and to bring back regional spice and food stories, stories which are very personal and not experienced before. So whichever region is close to your heart, you will find a taste of that, interpreted by the chef.
As a vegetarian, I loved the jackfruit biryani, the Musaafer daal and the amazing Gulab dessert. It was also a new, fun taste to eat the Birria Tacos, a nod to Musaafer’s Texan roots. The Paneer Rizala was a new taste and for the chicken fans amongst us, the Butter Chicken Experience was a novelty, served two ways both in a tomato and tomatillo gravy. The Maliks have impeccably educated their staff, ensuring every wait staff knows the food stories, the tastes and interpretations of what’s on the table.
Chef Mayank Istwal, who journeyed through India for a hundred days and distilled the secrets of authentic regional cuisine, says: “We strive to reinvent what Indian cuisine can be. India is vast and multicultural, and our menu reflects and honors that diversity. Every dish tells its own story, and throughout my journey, I have met everyone from generational home cooks to professional chefs and artisans, and I bring their stories to you. Musaafer is indebted to that history, and we are dedicated to spotlighting the playfulness of Indian cuisine through our blend of tradition and modernity.”
Any plans for expansion of the Musaafer franchise? After a lifetime of entrepreneurial adventures, Mithu Malik laughs, “Yes, knowing my husband, I’d never say never! We are in talks, but there’s nothing concrete as yet.”
Recently their son Zoravar, known as Zo, joined the family business. Shammi and Mithu have three children but only this youngest one has followed them into the Musaafer adventure. When he first showed interest in the restaurant, he worked in Houston at Musaafer, starting from dishwashing to the cutting and chopping and prepping, and then actual cooking. So, he did the entire shifts in the kitchen, and then he came to the front of house, and he rose through the ranks and finally became a server and was a server for almost three years.
In college, he majored in Economics but went on to get his master’s in hospitality from Switzerland. Zo has now joined Musaafer full-time in New York, proving that dedication and persistence are essential to succeed in the hospitality industry.
As he confided disarmingly on social media, “We’re the Malik family and if we’re being honest, shared meals are what held our family together. Some of our most cherished memories were shaped around the table. We can still remember exactly what we ate during our happiest moments, long before we realized we’d one day recreate that feeling for others.
Now, we invite you into our world.”
